Back on the Camino, Rouen

It's a sunny morning in Rouen. I'm back on part of the chemin de Saint Jaques, (la voie des Anglais, which I wrote about here) and which follows the pont Boieldieu across the river Seine, from la rive gauche to la rive droite. This is the heart of the mediaeval town centre with its ancient half-timbered buildings, striped and colourful. Some of them lean at a slight angle, tilt towards or away from the street, droop down at one side, as if resting on an invisible history, on something familiar that they are accustomed to, and where they find comfort and solace, like old spines slightly curving, cushioned by time. 

 
The barricades in front of these buildings are very much of the present. They are, I imagine, partly to protect the facades of the buildings and also to mark the route of the procession. Demonstrations (against Macron's proposed  reforms of the retirement age) are taking place in cities all over France this week-end. The one in Rouen is gathered at the place de Général
de Gaulle – and later walks along a planned route through the city centre. A loud hailer addresses the crowd but I can't make out much of what is said. I catch 'la retraite', Macron, support for 'les gilets jaunes' and 'tous ensemble' (all together) and every so often the crowd cheers. It feels enthusiastic yes, but not so much seething with discontent, as good-natured. There is a police car, but it's parked in a side street, several metres away from the square.

And there is another event happening, as I discover when I walk back towards the river. A group of people, mostly dressed in purple, are drumming and swaying in rhythm as they proceed slowly down la rue des Carnes towards the cathedral. They are smiling, clearly enjoying themselves as they are caught up in the rhythm of their drumming. A banner in front of them says Secours Populaire Françaises, an organisation that helps homeless people. There are no announcements or exhortations, no speeches or protestations. The powerful drumming, the vivid friendly energy says it all.  

All is peaceful by the banks of the Seine. You reach it by walking down steps from the bridge, then crossing a small railway track. A sign says you must wait if the red stop sign is lit. There is grass growing around the rails of the track, the sign looks a little rusty and there is no red stop light.

A couple of people walk their dogs by the riverside. A day in January, but it isn't cold, there is no wind and just a light cloud cover  that the sun shines through.